For example, when it comes time to train your dog on a new command, you’ll want to instruct him in a quiet area where there’s nothing and no one to distract him. If possible, train him inside with just you and him in the room.

After your dog’s mastered the command without any distractions, it’s time to slowly add them back in. You’ll want to make sure that your dog can ignore relatively small distractions, especially if the command you’re working on involves his safety, such as the DOWN STAY or COME command. Try adding another dog in the room, or bringing in some family members. Turn on the radio or the TV.

Now that your dog has mastered the command under these conditions, it’s time to take him outdoors. The great outdoors is equally great for providing distractions, between roaring car engines, blaring radios, chattering birds, novel dogs, passersby in uniform and so on. What a great environment for really putting your dog through his paces! If he can still handle the command, you can feel confident he’s really learned it. Time to teach something new!

In a nutshell, when training your dog, your goal is for him to respond to commands anywhere and anytime, regardless of the environment. You’ll never be 100% sure that your dog will obey on command. Any dog, no matter how well mannered and eager to please, can fixate on a dashing rabbit and take off into the woods, at least once in awhile. But you can train him to follow your lead the vast majority of the time, among all the conditions and distractions that modern life has to offer.

Another helpful hint when it comes to training on a new command is to anticipate your dog’s mistakes so you can correct them before they happen. This is an important part of learning to read your dog’s expressions, behavioral patterns and personality. Yes, your dog will tell you when he’s about to make a mistake!

For example, if you’ve told him to SIT STAY, then you’ll want to correct him when he thinks about getting up. He’ll give you a sign — he may wiggle his rump, toss his head, or lick his paw. For every dog it will be different, but if you look closely and pay attention, you’ll read his emotions well — and learn the behaviors that give him away. Now you can use this close knowledge of your dog as a positive tool for speedy, effective training.

Yes, it’s cold outside, but don’t stop your dog’s agility training. Depending on where you live, there might be snow on the ground from November through March, but that’s no reason to give up your agility training. Bring your training indoors, right at your own home.

Get creative with your training locations. Do you have a hallway, basement, or garage? Then you have a place to train! Before it snows and your equipment is frozen to the ground, store some in your garage, shed, basement, or put a tarp over it. Bring in one piece of equipment at a time, and begin your indoor training.

We do a lot of indoor training with a Pause Table. In fact, we keep one in our living room for both obedience training and agility training all the time. The Pause Table is a great obstacle for developing your obedience behaviors and teaching agility directional commands

Don’t forget to work on your contacts. It’s easy by having a Contact Trainer indoors. A 3-Piece Contact Trainer offers you versatility; you have an A-frame side, the Pause Table, and a Dog-walk plank. Practicing your two feet on and two feet off is convenient and quick when you have indoor contacts, only a few minutes a day to steady your dog’s behavior.

Indoor jumping must be approached carefully. If you don’t have indoor matting, don’t jump. You don’t want your dog jumping on concrete or wood floors. But you can use the uprights or posts to practice your handling. Use your Sit-stay or Down-stay and practice your lines or dogs path with no jump bars.

Weaves can be practice indoors. Are you training with a weave-chute or straight line weaves? Five minutes a day of weave training through out the winter will have your dog weaving smoothly by springtime. You can practice weave entries and weave sends or weave recalls.

There is also a variety of mini agility equipment that can be purchased, and don’t require the same space as standard equipment. There are mini-teeters, mini-dog walks, and mini-A-frames. These are great obstacles for puppy training or indoor winter training.

So, during the cold winter months, don’t give up on your agility training. Whether you are starting a young pup, working a novice dog, or an experienced titled dog there is always something that you can do indoors with your agility training.

Brad Carlson is a Dog Trainer at Agility by Carlson. For more training details, visit our website at http://www.carlson-agility.com/

Along with the two main mistakes a novice exhibitor makes — namely holding the show lead in two hands instead of one, and of taking tiny little mincing steps when gaiting his dog — there are many smaller mistakes or areas where the average novice can improve their handling during a dog show. These aren’t covered in any particular order of importance, for when it comes right down to it, they are all important.

1. When showing your dog, use a firm hand — firm but not rough. The rough handling, if you have a hard-headed dog, should be done at home during the training period, certainly not in the show ring. Occasionally it may be necessary to reprimand a dog in the ring if he seems to have forgotten all his training, but when it is necessary, you should speak harshly to him, perhaps using a few light taps where they will do the most good. The gasp that goes up around the ringside whenever a dog is loudly spanked in the ring, even though the dog is not hurt, will convince you that I am correct.

It’s necessary that you acquire a firm hand so that the dog knows what you expect of him. A wishy-washy touch with a dog is as bad as a wishy-washy handshake. The limp handshake might lose you an expected friend and a too-light touch with a dog might lose you an expected ribbon.

2. Don’t get down on both knees when you pose your dog. In order to get out of this position you must shift all your weight to one knee while you are bringing the other foot into position to stand on it. Frequently you lose your balance getting out of this position. I will admit that sitting on your heels during a large class is better than having nothing to sit on, but in the long run you will find the position has more drawbacks than it has comfort.

In showing a great many breeds you will be standing upright all of the time, but if you must get down lower, try the squat, or try placing only one knee on the ground and keep the other leg bent. Whichever you choose, keep your back as straight as possible. Either of these two positions allows you to get on your feet quickly and gracefully without the danger of losing your balance.

3. When you are in the show ring, don’t waste your time looking aimlessly around. While waiting for the class to begin, glance at your dog frequently to be sure he has not assumed a grotesque pose or that he is not getting into some mischief with another dog while you are staring into space.

While the dog is in a show pose, check on him frequently to be sure he has not stepped into a less attractive stance. If he is maintaining the correct pose, don’t fuss with him. Unless there is something that needs correcting, don’t spoil the picture your dog is making by nervous fussing with him which will accomplish nothing.

4. If you’re showing your dog at a summer show out in the broiling hot sun and you are entered in a very large class which must, of necessity, take the judge a long time to do, here is a little tip. For you, as the handler, there is no way out of it, but you could try to cast a shadow with your body to give your dog a little comfort while waiting for the judge.

If it is a very large class, don’t pose your dog until the judge is just two or three dogs away from yours. Your dog will be just a little less tired of it all when the judge gets to him, and these little things count quite a lot in hot competition.

These four tips come from years of personal experience, and even professional dog handlers often overlook them. Just remember these easy pieces of advice, and your showing will go smoother but avoiding small annoyances, and allow you to focus your attention on the bigger issues.

FREE information and secrets on how to have the Champion at dog shows — Plus articles on how to show a dog yourself! It’s FREE! Click here: http://www.DogShowingSecrets.com

Dog clicker training is so much fun for both dogs and people that the training part just slips in! Dog clicker training gets the dog to figure out what you want, making it an enjoyable game.

This wonderful, cruelty-free method is revolutionizing dog training!

Have you tried it yet? It’s quite easy to learn at a basic level, and once you and your dog get the habit, it can be used for many enjoyable tricks as well as for all the essentials of training. Clickers are inexpensive and widely available at pet stores and on the internet.

Here’s how you might do a short dog clicker training session (and short sessions work best for the dogs’ learning):

1. You have a clicker in your hand, and some small treats in a pocket or nearby. The treats can be small pieces of dry dog food, commercial dog treats, tiny pieces of cheese, or anything you know your dog likes to eat. You have chosen what you are going to train for this session… let’s say it’s “sit.”

2. Your dog wanders over, for whatever reason. He happens to lift his head up, and you click the clicker and give him a treat.

3. Now you’ve got his attention. Let’s say he happens to sit. You immediately click and give him a large “jackpot” treat because he’s done exactly what you want — even though he didn’t know you wanted it.

4. After some more rewards when he happens to do something that is either the behavior you want or part of it, he gets the idea that yummy treats come when he does certain things. He may offer you a variety of behaviors. Just reward the ones that you want in this context.

5. If he doesn’t sit because he is too excited by the treats, you could hold a treat over his head, so far back that he would sit (or even make a motion toward sitting) and then you could click that. Try to click at the very moment that he does what you want.

Once he definitely has the idea that sitting brings a treat (which might be more than one session), you can begin to use the word “sit” — timing it so you say it just before you think he is about to sit. He still does the sitting because in his mind, sitting and treats are connected, but after he has heard the word ‘sit” in that context enough times, he’ll get the idea.

This is exactly how I trained my Basenji to sit in the first week we had her as a puppy. It was the first time I had trained a dog to sit without endlessly shoving on its rear — and it got me hooked on dog clicker training!

Clicker training is a relatively new method for working with dogs. Dolphin trainer Karen Pryor began using the process with dogs. It has rapidly spread in popularity as its effectiveness has been proven — with young puppies, with “problem dogs,” with countless dogs in a great variety of situations. It’s based solidly on scientific principles of how animals learn.

About the Author

Rosana Hart is a longtime dog owner who has clickers and little bags of treats in several rooms of her house and in a bunch of her jackets. Her dogs think that they have trained her! You can find out more about clicker training and about other pain-free, positive dog training methods at her website http://www.training-dogs.com.

As dogs grow older, their senses become less sharp, which can lead to increasing communication difficulties.

Other problems, such as a breakdown in toilet training, can also arise, and while the effects of aging can’t be cured, regular veterinary check-ups should help to combat them for a time.

Your vet can advise you on the best way to care for your senior pet.

Making Adjustments

The relationship between you and your dog will inevitably alter as your dog grows older.

Dogs are now living much longer than in the past, thanks to advances in both nutrition and veterinary care, with even larger dogs now reaching their teens.

Sadly, however, a gradual decline in your dog’s physical health is inevitable.

“¢ Try not to let your dog wander off too far when you are out walking: its failing senses mean that he may come across difficulty in finding his way back to you.

“¢ One of the obvious signs of aging, especially with bigger dogs, can be joint pain and stiffness. This will restrict your dog’s ability to play, but some exercise is still important to maintain the dog’s level of fitness. Preventing your dog gaining weight at this stage is especially important, so as not to place undue extra strain on his skeletal frame. Encourage your dogs to chase after toys, just as he did when he was younger.

“¢ Be prepared to lift your dog into your car, or up stairs, because a combination of failing joints and deteriorating eyesight means that a dog will be reluctant to jump up as he may have done eagerly in the past.

“¢ Make allowances for your dog if he does not respond immediately when called: it may be that he has hearing problems.

“¢ If the dog’s eyesight starts to fail or develops cataracts, try not to move furniture from its usual position, as the dog will find this disorienting.

“¢ Pay particular attention to the dog’s teeth and gums as these can develop infections and infect other organs.

Aging Problems

As dogs grow older, so they become more reliant on routine. This is often then consequence of failing senses, with the result that they feel more secure in familiar surroundings.

His ability to hear will decline with age, as will his eyesight. Not surprisingly, dogs find this loss of sensory input disturbing, because it leaves him feeling isolated.

These changes often result in a dog becoming disorientated, especially at night, and being reluctant to settle down to sleep. Your dog may then bark repeatedly but for no obvious reason.

Dealing with this situation is difficult: if you persist in going to see what is wrong with your dog, this pattern of behavior soon becomes habitual. Arrange a veterinary appointment for your dog, to see if any medical aid may help.

About the Author

Amy Howells is the owner of a website dedicated to teaching you the short-cuts to dog training.

You can also sign up to a free e-course and discover the astonishing short-cut secrets to dog obedience training.

Is your dog one of those that pulls at his leash constantly whenever there is a distraction? A child walks by, or he sees another dog? If a cat or small animal scoots by, or if a car wooshes in front of him, does he tug to get closer? Is he hard to manage while visiting the vet, or when you have visitors?

If the answer is yes to any of these questions, then your dog training needs to include self-control measures. A child is taught similar things when they are growing up (don’t put your hand on the stove, or you can’t have a cookie unless you ask, first), a dog requires the same kind of love and attention, too. Just as you would teach a dog how to sit, speak, come when called or stop, you also need to provide dog training related to self-control.

A few simple guidelines are all that are required for owners to follow. Join me here as I briefly discuss them.

Teach Commands, Not Actions

When your dog lunges at something, instead of pulling tight on their leash to get them to stop, you should instead be telling them what to do in a firm voice. Tugging, even lightly on their leash only tells a dog who the master is, but not what behavior he should be exhibiting. Use this time constructively to practice commands that are appropriate in the situation, instead.

Treat Your Dog like a Friend

Realize that sometimes, your dog just won’t be able to do what you ask him to do, just like a good friend can’t sometimes as well. Dog training shouldn’t be about who is in charge, but instead about compromise and taking variables into account as required. So don’t ask your dog to sit still if he is truly excited about something … ask him instead to sit quietly.

Show Doggy How

Unless you show, or tell, your dog how to react, he won’t know how. Instead, he’ll do what he always does, which is pull and tug at his leash. Give him positive ways in which to respond to every tempting situation, and with some guidance he’ll be able to do what’s right.

Speak On His Terms

When you raise your voice or talk sharply, a dog hears this tone as being excited, similar to barking. It reinforces his already excited behavior, and gives him the idea that you are excited too, so it should be okay! Instead, use your dog training to speak softly and in quiet tones to get your dog to calm down, and he’ll realize soon enough it’s not appropriate behavior for the situation.

About the Author

Kevin Simmons is the webmaster of http://www.dog-training-info.com. Please visit the site for more free dog training articles.

Dog obedience training starts even before you get your puppy in your home. In fact, it starts with the person that you purchased the dog from. Ask the breeder or salesperson what type of training, if any, was provided before the dog entered into your care.

Puppies until the age of 21 days are like infants; they are only able to find Mom, eat, sleep and go to the bathroom. Anything else is pretty much beyond their abilities at this time. That fourth week, however, is crucial to any dog obedience training because this is when your animal becomes more aware of his surroundings. Any positive or negative experiences that occur during this time will affect your puppy for life, so make sure that any stimuli is in the right direction.

At the four week mark, puppies can be introduced to crate training while still at the breeder’s. A wire cage, well padded and large enough for the entire litter, is placed in the whelping box at this stage. Newspaper is placed all around the floor space, so that the dogs can get used to sleeping in the crate and eliminating on the paper.

Dog obedience training at this stage of the game is gentle and supportive, and there is no punishment. Breeders and owners should take this time to play with their puppies, and get them in a group to slowly learn the “Come” command, by quietly saying the word, and praising heavily when they do respond appropriately.

Remember that timing and consistency are key when beginning dog obedience training with your young pups. The trainer should be planning, on a daily basis, when and how to work on these essential skills, and then perform them at basically the same time every day. Also, positive reinforcement is necessary immediately during or after the pups have followed the given commands, or else there is a danger of the animals associating the praise with something else other than the intended action.

Give your dogs time to think about their actions before you react to them; especially at this young age, where there are a lot of distractions (like other puppies for instance, or a grumbly tummy), they may need a bit of time to respond to a command they are learning. Be patient. However, keep in mind that young dogs such as these are not able to take more than about 10 minutes of training at a time, before they lose attention. This is not only appropriate for their young age, it’s essential to their continued learning. Dog obedience training shouldn’t be boring for your animal … it should be fun!

Once you’ve worked through the more basic commands, make sure when introducing more complex concepts (such as Stay or Sit) that you break down the skill into small, bite-sized chunks. Start with teaching the dog how to sit properly, before you ask him to respond to the command, for instance. Many web sites have detailed progression training techniques for all of the dog obedience training commands, so feel free to search around for some ideas along this vein.

Throughout the 1990s, a phenomena swept through the dog-lover’s community that’s still every bit as important today. It was called “Clicker Training,” and was implemented to teach dogs (along with horses and cats) that certain behaviors would be rewarded while others would not.

Former dolphin trainer and author Ms. Karen Pryor, along with a team of “Operant Trainers,” started giving presentations at dog shows. They displayed how the small plastic device (about half the size of a bottle-opener) could be used to train dogs to do a number of “tricks,” in just a few days; tricks that would’ve taken months or even years to learn before.

The idea of using an acoustic sound or “click” to stimulate desired behaviors is called “operant conditioning” and was first used with dolphins and whales as early as the 1930s. This idea evolved and was formulated for other types of animals. These animals, like their dolphin predecessors, were “conditioned” to perform desired behaviors or actions.

Clicker Training is entirely based on a system of positive reinforcement with no punishment for undesired behavior. The clicker is clicked to let the dog know that he did something (i.e. sat, didn’t chew or jumped over a box, etc.) right. The system is designed to shape behavior by allowing the animal to do something for which he will then be rewarded with a click and a treat. It is NOT designed (as old training methods were) for the dog owner to physically manipulate the animal to sit, for example. Modern animal behaviorists find that animals learn more by themselves than when someone “shows” them how they should react in a situation.

If this idea is still hard to grasp, think about dolphins; or better yet, killer whales. There is no way that a trainer is going to physically manipulate a whale to jump out of the water. However, whales jump out of the water (at least partially) without conditioning. When these same whales jump out of the water, hear the “click” (or some associated sound), and then receive a treat, they quickly associate jumping out of the water as a positive behavior. Once that connection is made, trainers gradually increase what it takes (a higher jump) for the whale to get a click and a treat. It’s the same idea for a dog. The trainer waits for the dog to sit, quickly clicks, and gives the dog a treat. Puppies have been shown to learn as fast as within one click.

It’s important when using Clicker Training that the clicker is used immediately following the desired behavior. If the trainer or owner waits even a second, then the training could take a lot longer. Or worse yet, the dog may not associate the click and treat with something he did right. The clicker allows you to use something besides your voice to control your pet’s behaviors. It provides an external stimulus outside your body and provides a sound that is always the same, hence, always precise. It might be considered to be like a small remote control.

Today, Clicker Training is spreading like wildfire across many states and countries. Ms. Karen Pryor notes that in the early 1990s there were no Clicker Trainers. Just the idea existed. But now that people are seeing the amazing results, there are people budding up everywhere buying the manuals and using the device to train their dogs. Success statistics vary, but they lay somewhere between 90% and 100% percent effective. The higher statistics are a result of the dog having only one trainer who follows the guidelines exactly. When used precisely, it’s seemingly a flawless method of pet training.

Without agility, the most muscular person in the world couldn’t win a fight against a fifth-grader. But did you know that for a dog agility is possibly even more important? With so many of a dog’s happiest moments spent running, jumping, catching, and stretching, dog agility training can really help dogs age gracefully and happily.

What is dog agility training?

You’ve probably seen dog agility training on television. The dogs run a course of tire hoops, tunnels, seesaw, dog walk plank, jumps, hurdles, weaving poles, and a 3-meter A-frame. Heeling, sitting, down stays, send-aways as well as walking off leash are also included.

Who can participate?

Anyone with a dog can do agility training. There is not age limit for people or dogs. In fact, children and puppies are encouraged to take part. All breeds and sizes of dogs without a physical disability can benefit from agility training. Be sure to check with your vet before you begin agility training if you have any doubts about your canine’s fitness.

What equipment is needed?

You as the handler will need comfortable shoes and clothes that you can run in, because this is not exercise for the dog alone. Your dog needs a leather or webbed buckle collar and a leather, nylon or rope lead of fairly long length. Do not use a chain lead; it could get caught in the jumps.

Agility Training Courses for Dogs

There are two sides of agility training for dogs. They are the obstacles and the control training. There are also tips for training your dog. Obstacles. Although it seems high to many handlers, the A-frame is the best obstacle to begin training. The dog walk plank, low jump and the tunnel (dogs love this obstacle) are also excellent for training the novice dog.

Control training is important to keep your dog disciplined both on the agility course and off. Everybody knows that a dog must heel and sit. You must also teach your dog to know and obey different commands: to go left and right, lay down, and wait. After those are mastered, the dog must learn normal recall (returning anytime you call) and recall over obstacles. Also important is the “send away” command, making the dog go ahead you.

Tips for Dog Agility Training

Begin training by getting your dog’s attention. Talk to him and offer a small treat. Coupled with the love he has for you, he’ll be all ears. Be sure you have the correct lead (generally 6 feet) and a comfortable collar (measure the dog’s neck and add 2 inches) for your dog. Give praise often. “Tune in” to your dog to be sure she and you are ready to train.

Here’s a final tip: make sure that you and your dog enjoy yourselves. After all, jumping through hoops is supposed to be fun–at least if you’re a dog.

About the Author

If you love dogs and puppies, visit I-Love-Dogs.com now! You can get, free dog email, send a free dog postcard, learn about the different dog breeds and so much more.

Dog training, dog psychology — these only apply to the large dogs capable of really annoying someone when they get rambunctious, right? Not so. Small dogs as much as their larger counterparts — if not even more so! — need training to know where they stand in the pack, or risk getting “spoiled.”

Even a small dog who’s learned that he runs the show won’t offer you the sweet temperment and responsiveness that ultimately leads to a strong owner-dog bond. So read up on these quick tips, learn how to make your pup work for your favor (without ever being harsh or cruel), and you’re sure to enjoy a happier relationship with your toy dog.

You Must Be The Alpha Dog

First, let’s take a look at what a “pack mentality” means. Dogs are born into packs … in the wild, packs are the essential social order. Unlike humans, who use a variety of political processes to determine leadership and rank, dogs sort out their social order by dominance and power. In a wolf pack, there is a Top Dog … a clear leader who is the dominant, Alpha male. He’s the Big Dog, with pride of place at the dinner table (well, if wolves had a dinner table!), first in mating, first in decision making for the pack.

Whether you realize it or not, your dog views your household as his own personal wolf pack. The pack mentality is so engrained in your dog’s psyche that he will either view you as a leader – or a follower – depending on your actions. If you are to have a well-trained dog, you must establish that you are the leader, and he is the follower. Your dog has to know in his heart that you are the Alpha Dog, the Head Honcho, the Big Dog, the Top Dog … call it whatever you want, but your dog needs to know you’re in charge.

Dogs are a little like children in one respect … they’re looking for someone else to be the leader … they want rules and regulations because that makes their role in the pack more clear-cut and understandable. It’s scary being the leader … if you’re not up to it, your dog may assume the role … because someone has to be in charge!

If that’s what’s happened at your house, you need to re-establish your position as the Top Dog, or “Leader of the Pack.” But here’s an important note: being the leader of the pack has absolutely nothing to do with harsh punishment. It has everything to do with consistency and setting limits.

A simple rule to remember (and one people have great difficulty keeping in mind) is that you are the leader, not your dog.

1. You Go Through The Door First. Even something as straightforward as who walks through the door first can reinforce your position as “dominant dog.” Leaders lead. Followers follow. If you allow your dog to charge through the door ahead of you, he perceives that as asserting his dominance over you. Put your dog on the leash, and make sure you’re the first one through the door.

2. You Eat Before Your Dog. Who gets fed first in your house … you or your dog? In a wolf pack, the leader eats first, and when he is done, the rest of the pack can dine. Do you feed your dog first because he pesters you when you’re cooking your dinner, and it’s simply more convenient to have him quiet and out of the way when you’re eating?

Food is a powerful motivator that can be used to clearly demonstrate who is the ruler of the roost at your house. In no way, shape or form am I suggesting that you withhold food from your dog … that’s cruel and unusual punishment any way you look at it. What I am suggesting is that you control the timing of the food … you should eat first, your dog second, after you’re done with your meal.

3. Don’t Walk Around Your Dog. Does your dog lie on the floor and expect you to walk around him? In the wild, dominant dogs lie wherever they want, and dogs lower in the social order go around so they don’t disturb the Big Dog. If you walk around your dog, he will assume this to be an act of submission on your part; therefore he must be the leader, not you.

If your dog is lying in the middle of the hallway, or right in front of your easy chair, make him move. If he’s on the couch and you want to lie down, make him move. Don’t step over him. Just gently nudge him and make him get out of your way. You’re the Big Dog, remember?

4. You Determine When Your Dog Gets Attention. Even asking for attention or affection can be seen as an act of dominance from your dog’s point of view. Dogs that demand attention are asserting dominance, so if your dog gets pushy, ignore him. When you’re ready to give him attention or affection or pet or play with him, ask him to sit first. Don’t run after him just so you can pet him. Make him come to you when you’re ready to give him attention, or play with him. And when you play with a toy, make sure that you end up with possession of the toy, and then put the toy away when you’re done. (Note: I’m not talking about his favorite toys that you leave in his crate. I’m talking about play toys that the two of you use for games.)

5. Don’t Let Your Dog Sleep In Your Bed. This is a tough one for a lot of people, but when you let your dog share your bed, at best you’re making him an equal to you. He should have his own bed, either a dog pad or his crate that he feels comfortable in … you can even put the dog pad next to your bed if that makes both of you happier … but don’t let him take over the sleeping arrangements. Before you know it, he’ll be trying to make you sleep on the floor!

Again, reinforcing or retraining your dog to recognize you as the Head Honcho has absolutely nothing to do with harsh discipline. These are changes you can make that will change the way your dog thinks about you. And making even small changes like these can have an enormous impact on the way your dog views the social hierarchy in your home … all without a harsh word being spoken!

About the Author

Charlie Lafave, author, “Dog Training Secrets!” To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving “best friend” who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit: http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj