And for that reason, you’ll see many of the wolf’s habits and behaviors show up in your dog, although many of your dog’s wolfish instincts have (fortunately!) been blunted.

Still, one similarity between dogs and wolves that’s going strong is their love of traveling long distances. Most dogs, excepting those that have been radically downsized or otherwise altered by breeding, have the energy and strength to run for 15 miles a day!

Many of our dogs don’t get enough walking to burn off all of their doggy energy. When this happens, their vitality can come out in ways we consider destructive, such as incessant barking, chewing, becoming an escape artist or digging in the backyard. As Einstein taught us, all energy must go somewhere!

Whether you like to take your dog off or on the leash, walking and running is the most common and universal way of bonding with and exercising your dog. Like many human-dog activities, this one is excellent for both of you.

Just adding a mile or two to your daily routine can result in big health benefits, and your dog will love it. Another nice side effect of walking your dog is that lets you meet people around the neighborhood. Sometimes you might even meet people willing to form a “dog play group.”

When you’re walking your dog, be sure to be a good dog-owning citizen. Try to make sure he doesn’t relieve himself on the neighbor’s lawn. The best way to do this is to make sure he goes potty at home before you start your walk. If your walk begins in an area crowded with other people and traffic, keep him on his leash until you get to a quieter area, no matter how well behaved he is.

Some people don’t enjoy walking their dogs because their dogs pull too hard on the leash. Walking isn’t going to be any fun for you if your dog is dragging you down the street, barely in control and causing you real risk of injury.

If you’re new to dealing with dogs, know that you’ll have to be stubborn and patient to overcome this problem. The technique that works best for most dogs is to stop cold and stand there when they start pulling hard. Since dogs love forward motion, they’ll hate all the standing and eventually get the message. (This is a great way to get your kids to stop yelling in the car, too.)

If you’re willing to confront any behavioral problems your dog shows during a walk, you’re both sure to enjoy the experience much more. Walking your dog should be the type of thing you both look forward to — and something that feels terrific when you’re done, so that you both sink down in a chair or on a rug, endorphin rushes in full swing, and think, why don’t we do this more often?

Even with these troublesome problems, you love your dog, and don’t want to give him up (or worse … get a call from animal control demanding you take some kind of action). But how can you turn your aggressive dog into a friendly, obedient dog you can rely on around yourself, your family and visitors?

Obviously, one of the most serious problems that comes with an aggressive dog is biting. Biting can cause serious harm in and of itself. It can also cause serious legal problems. Other unpleasant aggressive behaviors include growling, angry barking, bared teeth, and lunging or snapping.

You can easily tell when a dog is starting to get aggressive. He’ll stand very still and square. His hackles (a ridge of hair that travels the back from the nape) will rise, and he’ll have a focused, intent expression on his face.

It’s common for a non-neutered male to be unusually aggressive toward other dogs. At the bare minimum, you’ll need to neuter your aggressive dog if you want him to have a chance at developing normally friendly interactions with other dogs. Neutering’s most useful in this respect before the dog’s reached puberty, but don’t let that prevent you from getting him fixed if he’s older.

Another typical reason for aggression in dogs is their fear. Often, a nervous, fearful and aggressive dog has suffered cruelty or neglect. Unfortunately, these dogs can be especially dangerous, because they direct their aggression at people. If your dog has ever bitten or attacked anyone … whether a family member or stranger … you must take care of the problem right away. Get expert help. Start with your vet, who might be able to recommend the right animal behaviorist to intervene before your dog seriously hurts someone or moves into legal territory you can’t control.

The best way to prevent aggression in your dog is to train him correctly as a puppy. You’ll want to slowly but firmly establish yourself as the pack leader, a message you’ll underscore in countless little interactions with him. Certain simple exercises, like taking his food and returning it with some warm words of praise, or making him sit before he eats, will let him know who’s boss. A dog training philosophy sometimes called “there’s no free lunch” goes a long way toward establishing your dominance without ever being cruel.

Other useful techniques are to approach him while he’s sleeping, waking him up slowly so he learns to take it in stride even when he’s vulnerable. Expose him to strangers and other dogs as young as possible … obedience class is invaluable for this sort of thing. Socializing your dog when he’s young will make him feel more comfortable with strangers when he’s older, which makes a world of difference.

One final point … never, ever punish or yell at your dog when he’s acting aggressive. If you’re getting out of control, this is a sign to call in expert help, not raise your voice or hand against your dog. It’s guaranteed that yelling or hitting will make the situation worse. Instead, say “NO” with a stern and disapproving look, then go from there … to a dog behaviorist if necessary.

I’m often surprised at the number of owners that have barking and destructive dogs. How do they manage to put up with all that the noise for so long? Perhaps after a while, we manage to turn a deaf ear to the racket the dog is making. In many instances, nothing is done about the dog barking until a neighbour complains.

Most neighbours will tolerate a great deal before actually confronting you about the problem, so you can usually be sure that if your neighbour is saying that the dog is barking a lot then the dog really is barking excessively. Do you live next door to a barking dog? Or are you that neighbour from hell with the dog that barks all day and night?

Many barking and destructive dogs are given the label “˜Separation Anxiety’. Once a vet hears of this type of behaviour he might prescribe the latest drug Clomicalm manufactured by Norvartis. However this drug should only be used in combination with behavioural therapy techniques, which very few vets are aware of.

Research

The University of Warwick have recently carried out a survey into the causes of separation anxiety to try to identify any common factors. The survey showed almost seventy five per cent of vets reported seeing up to five cases per month with the other twenty five percent seeing more than this. That totals to one case every single week for every vet in the country! Barking dogs are definitely a problem!

Separation disorder is rarely the reason that a pet dog owner will take the dog to the vet, since most owners do not understand the problem. One of the worrying aspects of the survey is that fifty seven percent of owners stated they could not keep their pets because of the barking or destruction.

Male dogs between one and three years of age from the working or terrier breeds were most prone to these problems. This does not mean that you will never encounter barking or destruction if you have a female collie aged 4!

The survey has so far shown that in many cases, a change in family life or the home led to the onset of barking and destruction. Forty three per cent were due to a change in the owners working hours, followed by twenty three per cent from house moving, a new member of the family showed a nineteen per cent change, and thirteen per cent from the death of a member of the family.

Of course all surveys will produce different results. I personally find that questions prepared by companies with a commercial interest and asked by vets who know little if anything about triggers, which cause behavioural problems, can be very misleading.

Analyse with Video

As a behaviourist I would be seeking other ways to analyse barking and destructive behaviour to see if particular animals are suitable for Clomicalm or any other drug. I would install a video camera in the owner’s home to enable me to study the dog’s behaviour when left on its own. This would enable me to study the dog’s emotional state and decide whether the medication may help and what type of behaviour therapy may be needed. All too often the owner primes the dog before leaving the house. An emotional farewell of “Don’t worry, Mummy won’t be long!” will make the dog believe there is something to worry about. And then a prolonged welcome and greeting could reinforce the separation to the dog, further adding to the anxiety when next left alone.

New Devices

There are a number of new devices on the market to stop dogs barking one being the Citronella squirting bark-activated collar. The other known as the MasterPlus allows the release of an odourless spray, which is controlled by the owner at a distance by remote control. Roger Mugford markets both products.

Peter Neville recently wrote, that being punished for barking is not he answer. In the case of the citronella-squirting collars, there is an added disadvantage that even if the dog is quiet after getting a nose full of unpleasant scent, that scent remains in his environment, still punishing him when he is silent. The whole house becomes associated with the possibility of being punished by these collars and the dog may become even more disturbed by the prospect of being left. Other dogs soon learn that they only need to stop barking whilst they are wearing a certain collar – the one that makes the nasty smell.

Here what to do

So, what should you do if you own a barking dog? First of all, teach the dog a “Shush!” command. This can be done quite easily by allowing the dog two or three barks, then hold a piece of tasty food under his nose – the dog will not be able to sniff and bark at the same time. This gives you several seconds of quietness that you can praise before allowing him to get the treat. Try making a chart of when the dog barks. Most neighbours will be happy to help out here! This could show that the dog starts to bark when the post arrives – a remote post box may be all that is needed to stop the barking. One dog I know of started to bark when the central heating boiler fired up, about an hour before the owners got home for the evening.

Whilst your out of the house

It is generally reckoned that most barking and destructive chewing happens within half an hour of the dog being left alone. Think of ways to entertain your dog for that critical half hour. Offering a tasty bone, or Kong toy stuffed with something nice tasting, just as you are about to leave the house will keep the dog amused for some time. Hiding dog biscuits around the house will keep many dogs happily searching for hours.

But most of all, cut out the dramatics! No big leaving or arriving acts. Try to ignore the dog for at least 15 minutes before you leave the house, and also ignore him for the same time when you return home. Ignore means do no look at the dog, do not speak to the dog and do not touch the dog. You could even try saying “Hello” to all your houseplants before speaking to the dog! And if you are living next door – offering help can be a much better tactic than calling the cops!

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Do you have any problems with your pet? Then why not send your problem to DAVID THE DOGMAN. David is a Canine Behaviourist who works and lives in Marbella, Spain. Tel/Fax (00345) 2883388. His web site is located at: http://www.thedogman.net. David has his own radio and TV shows, and writes for many newspapers and magazines. David has been working with dogs for many years and started his career in Israel, working on the Border Police. He has been involved in all forms of training, including air sea rescue, air scent work, and has trained dogs for finding drugs. David has devoted the past 10 years to studying behaviour and the very passive approach. He does not use choke chains, check chains, or any form of aggression.

David The Dogman is available for private consultations in your home, for further details telephone; Tel; (95) 2883388

Puppies are the same. They want to see just how soft your finger is, or what that leash tastes like. In addition, biting or nipping is an important part of learning social skills in their “wolf” pack … the social structure that makes up your dog’s life.

And with some breeds, such as Border Collies, biting or nipping is even more instinctive because of the nature of the breed … they’re born and bred to herd livestock, and that’s how a 50 or 60 pound dog will control a 1,000 pound cow … by biting at the heels or nose.

If your dog was allowed to remain with mom and his littermates for an appropriate amount of time (until at least 8 weeks of age), then mom should have taught him the beginnings of bite inhibition. As the pups began to grow and develop those needle-sharp little puppy teeth, mom would have disciplined him for being too rough, either with her or his littermates. Junior soon learns that all play will stop and he’ll get smacked down by mom if he gets carried away.

But when you get that puppy home, and he becomes part of the family, you may be encouraging him to nip by letting the kids run away from him, squealing and giggling in an effort to play “chase” games. While this is cute at the beginning, it can soon turn into a full-fledged problem when he’s no longer such a small, cute puppy, and views any child running away as fair game. You can also encourage this kind of bad behavior by teasing him with toys … holding them just above his head and yanking them out of range when he jumps for the toy or nips at it. (This also encourages another bad habit: jumping.)

Here’s 5 things you can do to stop your puppy from nipping.

1. When your puppy does nip … stop all play

If your puppy nips too hard, say “Ouch!” in a loud-enough voice to surprise him (don’t start off by screaming!) and stop all play. Turn your back on him, and refuse to continue the game. He should come around to face you and find out what’s wrong … tell him “bad dog … no bite” in a firm tone of voice. Do this every time he nips until he gets the idea that nipping means no more fun.

2. Replace your flesh with a toy

When you’ve resumed play, and if your puppy tries to nip again, try replacing your hand or arm (or whatever’s being nipped) with a toy. Teach your puppy that you’re not the toy. Put a toy in between you and those needle-sharp teeth!

3. The Nose Tap

If your puppy nips turn to him immediately and give him the “sit” command. Take your forefinger and hold it up in front of his nose, then tap him on the nose and say “no bite” in a stern tone of voice. It’s important to note two things here: 1) the nose tap isn’t designed as a dire punishment … you’re not trying to hurt him, but rather startle him into stopping the behaviour; and 2) your tone of voice is just as important as the nose tap. Don’t scream at him … your voice should be stern and give a clear warning … think of it as a verbal growl … something that he can understand as a dog.

An interesting result of this manner of breaking this habit is that down the road, when your puppy has learned to recognize the raised finger … he’ll usually stop whatever behavior he’s engaging in just because he knows what’s coming. You won’t even have to raise your voice … just lift that finger.

4. Don’t encourage biting or nipping in the first place

Don’t let the kids start “chase” games … that encourages dogs to think that the kids are prey. Don’t play games that involve waving your hands in front of your dog and encouraging him to jump or nip.

Don’t play tug-of-war with your dog … it will not only encourage him to think he’s your equal, it can promote nipping if you use a rope toy, for example, because he’ll try to bite at your hands to make you lose your grip on the toy. Play games of fetch and retrieval, but be sure that your dog knows the “drop” or “release” command so you’re not fighting over the toy.

5. Be consistent

Stop the nipping behavior as soon as it starts, and be consistent about disciplining your puppy for it. Don’t let him get away with nipping on one day, and then discipline for the same behavior the next. Dogs don’t understand “sometimes it’s ok,” or “maybe it’s ok it you don’t nip too hard and I’m in a good mood.” They understand “Don’t ever do that,” and “No more treats if you do that.”

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Some dogs are content to live a lifetime within the confines of their yard with very little restraint. Others get the wandering bug, and dig, climb or jump fences, and break out to explore their world. Some stay close by while others roam far, but any free roaming brings risks to their health and life, and often contributes to unwanted puppies.

The battle to keep a dog contained that wants to roam is half psychological, half physical. One successful escape rewards the urge to try again. Dogs escape for curiosity, sexual activity, exploration, food, hunting, companionship, and to establish dominance over other dogs. Roaming is its own reward, with the dog able to do whatever it pleases.

While the pack mentality and sexual urges are major factors in some dog’s escapes, much of this can be suppressed if the dog is entertained within its own space. Give a dog plenty of things to do. Provide toys, regular exercise, play time, attention, variation and environmental enrichment.

Neutering the dog and providing amusements are keys to calming dogs’ tendency to roam. Males tend to escape more than females, but intact dogs of both sexes are more likely to roam than those that have been neutered.

Owners also should make escape difficult. Set fence posts in cement, ensure fences are tall and secure, and make sure any buried wire containment systems are at a depth the dog can’t unearth. However, some fenced-in dogs become territorially aggressive, as the containment frustrates their social urges, especially those penned in boring environments.

While some dogs dig specifically to escape, digging is a pleasurable activity for dogs and is self-reinforcing as the dirt “˜plays’ back. Other self-reinforcing activities are roaming and foraging in areas where food scraps can be found. Many dogs enjoy these activities on their own merits and seek out opportunities to do these often.

Escaping is a reward, so if a dog gets out of the yard once, it will try 30 or 40 more times to do it again. However, a dog will not repeat escape attempts if it never succeeds.

If the dog goes to one location when it escapes, such as a former home, the owners can try and make this location an unpleasant experience by encouraging the people there to be rude to the dog and not feed it. Also, do not reward a dog when it returns home as this encourages it to leave and then return home again and does not prevent it from escaping in the first place.

With the help of your veterinarian and dog trainer, owners of determined escape artists can try a few other tricks to keep their dog safely contained.

For lots of easy to read articles, full of useful information that is sure to help you out with your pet or pets, go to http://www.P-E-T-S.info. While you are there sign up for the PET NEWS email newsletter – it is FREE and packed with handy tips for pet owners.

While dogs may be our best friends, some dogs can become aggressive and bite. A dog bite falls under the law in the personal injury category. Each state has various laws regarding the liability of the dog’s owner. Following are things you should do if you are bitten by a dog.

Dogs that bite can do it for a number of reasons. Perhaps the dog has always had an aggressive nature and perceives you as an unwanted stranger. Historically, there are certain breeds that have been known to harbor aggression. The Pit Bull breed is a common example.

The dog’s breed is only one factor and doesn’t always mean the dog will be aggressive and prone to biting. You might encounter a dog that has been healthy in the past and free from offensive behavior. However, now the dog has suffered from a health illness such as rabies. Rabies can cause dogs to become disoriented and lash out by biting people. A classic sign of rabies is drooling and foaming of the mouth.

If you are bitten it is imperative that you have your bite checked out at the hospital as soon as possible. Dogs can be a host to several bacterial and viral infections that you can contract such as ring worm. Make sure however, that you remember the type of breed to help a doctor assess the extent of the wound. Write down the contact information of the dog’s owner should you need to file a lawsuit.

Dog bite lawsuits arise when the dog bite is serious enough to cause injury, mental aggravation, and hospital bills. It was beneficial that you wrote down the dog breed and the dog owner’s contact information because you will need it when filing a dog bite lawsuit. Should you choose to file a dog bite lawsuit, you will need to contact an attorney to understand your rights and requirements for filing.

An attorney will explain the specific dog bite lawsuit laws in your state. It is good to know that the majority of states hold the dog’s owner liable for any dog bites. It will also need to be determined if the owner had prior knowledge of the dog’s aggression. This is termed “dangerous propensities”. Did the owner know in advance that their dog was of a certain breed that is prone to biting? Did they provide the required safeguards to control this unwanted behavior in their dog?

Additionally, some states have enacted legislation that involves “strict liability”. The owner is liable for their dog’s actions whether they knew the dog was dangerous or not. Anytime their dog bites someone they are held liable no matter the situation or circumstances.

On the flip side of the coin is to view this from the dog owner’s perspective. Let’s say the dog owner had prior knowledge that their dog may be dangerous or may bite someone. The owner then took protective measures to keep his dog in a secure area. He also had placed “Beware of Dog” signs on his property and has warned others not to approach his dog as the dog may attack. The owner had done all this, but someone didn’t listen or even provoked the dog on purpose.

If the owner has provided these safety precautions they are sometimes not liable due to “contributory negligence”. “Contributory negligence” means that the person who was bitten understood the dangerousness of the animal, but proceeded to place themselves in the dog’s environment anyway. This type of dog bite lawsuit often ends in favor of the dog owner.

If you do file a dog bite lawsuit, you can sue for compensation regarding medical costs you will incur due to the dog bite, pain and suffering, property damage, and affected wages. A vicious dog bite can leave you unable to work for some time and you need a way to recoup your losses.

You can also be awarded punitive damages in some cases. Whether or not you are awarded punitive damages depends on the behavior of the dog’s owner. Did the owner intentionally provoke their dog and put you in the line of fire? If so, the dog owner’s behavior will be punished by granting you an additional punitive damages settlement.

If you suffer from a dog bite, you can rest a little easier knowing that many health insurance plans cover costs associated with dog bites. Hopefully, you won’t ever have to deal with a dog bite and dog bite lawsuit. Understand though that if you are bitten by a dog, you do have legal claims. The extent and nature of the legal claims vary from state to state, but the basic guidelines have been discussed in this article. Consult an attorney that has worked on dog bite lawsuits in the past to figure out the best course of action.

Visit the Dog Bite Lawsuits website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog books, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

What is Separation Anxiety?

When you leave the house, it’s nice to know that your dog goes to his favorite spot and sleeps peacefully until you return. However, dogs suffering from separation anxiety are not so lucky. Separation anxiety can appear in dogs that have not been properly socialized, dogs that have been moved from one home to another, and dogs that are naturally nervous.

Your dog is a social, pack animal who relies on the others (you) for individual protection and security. Dogs that lack confidence, due to socialization issues, understanding of expected behavior, or possible maltreatment in the past (adopted dogs), are more likely to exhibit behaviors related to separation anxiety.

Essentially, when you leave to go to work, or even just to the corner store for five minutes, you dog becomes upset, stressed and confused. Dogs with separation anxiety can do anything — from whining and barking to ripping apart your couch and eating your duck feathered pillow.

How do I know if my dog has Separation Anxiety?

There is much debate over the cause of separation anxiety. some believe it is a lack of confidence that causes the dog to rely to much on their humans. In this case, you have to teach your dog to accept the fact that you are leaving, and it’s going to be ok.

If you have a dog with separation anxiety, you will know. Dogs will usually exhibit a combination of the following:

• The behavior often occurs when the dog is left alone.
• The dog makes it a “big deal” when his owner leaves or comes home.
• When left alone, the dog will exhibit behavior which is not common to his normal behavior.
• The dog may not eat if the owner is not in the room.
• The dog will follow his owner around constantly.

What ever the cause is, here are some techniques for solving the problem.

What can be done?

Make your Departure and Arrival Routine

Make your dog realize that your departures and arrivals are nothing to get excited over. Usually the dog feels the greatest amount of anxiety shortly after you leave. Therefore you need to practice with your dog the “routine” of coming and going.

Lots of Exercise!

Exercise is believed to relieve stress in both humans and dogs alike. A long walk, run, or play session prior to leaving can go a long way in helping to reduce the stress and anxiety of your dog.

Give Your Dog Something to Do While You Are gone

If your dog has something entertaining to do while you are away, he will be less likely to become stressed and anxious. A stuffed Kong filled with a tasty treat is an excellent example.

Confine Your Dog While You Are Away

Some dogs are more comfortable being confined to their own “den.” A crate is an ideal space for your dog. A dog who is properly crate trained is less susceptible to get in to trouble while you are gone. If a crate is not an option, confine him to one room or limit access to the whole house.

Introduce Another Dog

If your dog has another companion to keep him company while you’re gone, it may help alleviate the boredom and tension caused while you are away. Of course this is only “one” option. There are many other factors to take into consideration before adding another dog to your home.

Set Aside Time For Your Dog

Make time during your day to give undivided attention to your dog. This time can be spent playing, teaching, or even just taking a nap together. If possible, try to make this one-on-one time prior to departures.

Leave the Radio or TV On

Leave a radio on in a separate room. The dog will hear the voice and will feel less alone. Some people even leave voice recordings of themselves in hopes to calm the dog.

Depending on the severity of anxiety, you may need to contact a behavior specialist through your vet.

About the Author

Ths website only provides BASIC information about Seperation Anxiety. your veterinarian is always your best source of health information. Consult your veterinarian for more information about Seperation Anxiety and its prevention.

For more great articles and tons of other great Dog info, visit Ron’s blog or visit our Pet blog.

While we know digging is instinctive in our pets, we often wish they wouldn’t. Compulsive diggers and dogs that dig excessively are frustrating. Owners don’t want to punish their pets for doing what comes naturally, but they also don’t want their yards to be covered by craters. Luckily, there are ways to reduce and even stop dogs from digging.

Before you can treat the behavior, you need to understand your dog’s reason for digging. Does she only dig when left alone? Does she always dig in the same spot? Is she digging under a fence? The minute you give her those rawhide chews, does she tend to take them outside in preparation for a good dig? Answering these questions can help you find the right approach to take in training your dog.

If your dog digs only when she’s left alone for long periods of time, she’s probably trying to relieve her boredom. A good physical workout before you leave will tire her out so that she sleeps part of the time you are gone. Be sure to equip her with toys that engage her mind as well as her body, so she can stay busy when she wakes up. Pet supply stores have an amazing array of chew toys and dog “puzzles.” These are hollow cubes or balls into which you place small pieces of treats. Your dog will be able to smell the treats inside, and must figure out a way to get to them. Usually, this requires nosing and rolling the puzzle until a treat falls out of one of many small openings. Other toys allow you to freeze something tasty inside, like chicken broth. It will naturally take some time for your dog to extract the goodies.

Sometimes dogs dig to have a cool place in the ground where they can escape the heat or unfriendly weather. If you think this might be the case with your dog, take a close look at her environment and see if you can provide more shelter.

Another way to deal with a digging dog is to channel her behavior to an acceptable spot. Some dog owners create special digging pits for their dogs. These are small areas of soft dirt in which the owners bury treats. Some are placed deeper than others, so that dogs have to use their sense of smell to find the treats. To make this technique successful, bury treats on an irregular basis, and never let your dog see you placing them in the dirt.

You may have to make an extra effort with very compulsive diggers. If your dog repeatedly digs in a favorite flower bed, you might need to put up a physical barrier to prevent her from gaining access to the spot. Remote punishment is another technique that sometimes works well. This is simply something — a blast of water, for example — that distracts the dog the moment she begins to dig. Some people suggest you distract the dog personally, either with a blast from a squirt gun or by shaking a can of coins. The drawback is that this only works if you’re with your dog constantly. Your dog may stop digging when you’re around, but she’s likely to continue her digging behavior.